Low cuts for black guys

Black Box Analog Design HG-Q Well this should be quite interesting Instagram interesting indeed!BBA guys please tell us more about this thing! Isn't it !? Tubes, Cut & Boost, Shelf or Bell, M & S, Low cuts, Solo per Channel...Now what is the "Post" and "H-mode" I wonder ?And last but not least......Price Tag ??? Gear Maniac Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 257 Verified Member 🎧 10 years more info please! coolest thing i've seen from NAMM! Lives for gear Joined: Dec 2015 Posts: 9,734 Verified Member 2 Reviews written 🎧 5 years Here's some more info:Front panel is incorrectThe HPF knob will be a drive control to allow you to push into the tube stagesThe H-MODE is a harmonic mode that will increase tube harmonics and saturationThe POST mode places the boost knob post the cut knob, so you can pull out some 1k narrow (cuts are narrower) and then boost back some 1k (wider boosts) with tube harmonics around it to edge away bad stuff and add in good stuff either side, like a Pultec trick, but it's NOT a Pultec copy in anyway as far as I can seeWhen bands aren't in POST mode, they are passive parallel boost filters, where cuts are active filters, the bandwidth control applies to both boost & cut, but cuts are narrower than the boosts...The prototype had sweep frequencies but the final unit should be steppedIt's shaping up to kinda be like a multi-band HG-2 in an EQ with mid/side... could be mental!-T that all sounds great. hopefully the frequency choices on the front panel are correct, because i think they're all really well-chosen. Gear Maniac Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 257 Verified Member 🎧 10 years wow that sounds exciting.so wait, will it have an HPF?? Quote: Originally Posted by dogoftears ➡️ wow that sounds exciting.so wait, will it have an HPF?? Apparently not, but I guess it's more appropriate to have some extra boost to make the entire unit sounds warmer, than simple high pass filters wich can easily and more precisely be done ITB. Imo anyway...Can't wait to hear some sound exemple ! Quote: Originally Posted by TRW ➡️ Here's some more info:Front panel is incorrectThe HPF knob will be a drive control to allow you to push into the tube stagesThe H-MODE is a harmonic mode that will increase tube harmonics and saturationThe POST mode places the boost knob post the cut knob, so you can pull out some 1k narrow (cuts are narrower) and then boost back some 1k (wider boosts) with tube harmonics around it to edge away bad stuff and add in good stuff either side, like a Pultec trick, but it's NOT a Pultec copy in anyway as far as I can seeWhen bands aren't in POST mode, they are passive parallel boost filters, where cuts are active filters, the bandwidth control applies to both boost & cut, but cuts are narrower than the boosts...The prototype had sweep frequencies but the final unit should be

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To ground. The audio signal goes into the middle left pin, and the lower left pin goes to the Low-Pass input. The Band-Pass switch is simply connected to the Low-pass input and the audio input. If the filter is in Low-Pass mode the BP switch won't have any effect but in High-Pass mode the switch will connect the audio to the Low-Pass input aswell so both inputs get the audio signal thus creating the bandpass characteristic.A little sidenote about the writing next to the switch in the layout: the HighPass and LowPass marking next to the switch on the wiring diagram reflect the function of the actual wires connected to that part of the switch. A Toggle switch works the other way around. If you flip the switch upwards, the middle and bottom pins are connected to eachother. If you flip it downwards the top and middle pins are connected so on the eventual panel, the switch should have LowPass marked at the top and HighPass at the bottom. This way of marking the switch functions goes for all the layouts on this website that have switches in them.Close up of just the stripboard layout (Print this one and use it for your project. The lay-out is guaranteed, tested and verified faultless. It has been used by hundreds of people by now). Don't forget to cut all the copper strips under the IC's.(Last revised 7-Oct.-2023 Cosmetic changes. Removed colour codes from resistors, added colour coding to wirebridges.)Cuts and wirebridges as seen from the COMPONENT SIDE! As always, mark the cuts to be made with a black waterproof Sharpie on the component side. Then put a pin through the marked holes and mark them again on the copper side. Then cut the copper at the marked positions with a sharp, hand held, 6 or 7mm drill bit. Check your cuts with a continuïty meter or a powerful magnifying glass before you proceed.Bill of Materials:About the components:I used fairly cheap LM13700 chips I got out of China and I think I got lucky and got real ones instead of fakes. But play it safe and get your chips from a reputable source.I used a DPDT toggle switch (Double Pole Double Throw) to switch between High-Pass and Low-Pass but you could also use a jack socket for High-Pass input with a build-in switch that connects C4 to ground when nothing is plugged in there.The Cut-Off Frequency potmeter in this build is a 100K one, but you can use any type you wish because pins 1 and 3 are connected to the + and - of the power supply so it is nothing more then a voltage devider. I saw that Sam Battle uses

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